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to the naked eye, this farm is just like any other. but it doesn’t take long to realise that the

50ealize jesus martin, though not huge, is anything but ordinary.

martin grew up like many others in the santa ana valley – known as the coffee triangle of

colombia – on a coffee farm owned by his father and grandfather. “i am the youngest of six

children and we all worked the farm,” martin said. “my parents focused their energies on teaching

us the agricultural trade, but also the love behind it.” despite this great dedication to coffee and

respect for his family business, he ended up pursuing a different career altogether: law and business

management. it didn’t come easy to him as coffee was never far away.

during every visit to his family’s humble farm, the rich aromas of beans roasting and the

smell of his mother’s carrot cake caused his heart to beat faster. coffee was his life, and in 2004,

after years practicing law, he found a way to combine his legal knowledge, business education and

family’s lifeline into what he called “the coffee dream project”.

despite growing some of the most coveted beans in the world, most colombians have never

even tasted the colombian coffee that is renowned around the world. instead, local people drink

what they call “second-hand coffee”, which is made from berries that haven't fully ripened,’have

been over-roasted or even infected with insects and diseases. like most businesses in struggling

economies, the farmers only make profits on exports – so they save their best stuff for higher paying

countries. “farming coffee for a profit is very challenging,” martin explained, tossing a few berries

in his hand. “the coffee trade intermediaries, exporters, roasters and big multinational companies

are the ones that benefit the most in the coffee-trade chain.” martin’s dream project, however, was

to turn this process around, bringing specialty coffee back to colombia.

the project, however, was a total surprise for his family. “when i first informed them, they

told me i was crazy, they said it was a wild goose chase.”

even with his background in farming, starting the project from the ground up was difficult.

convincing his workers to focus on quality was his biggest concern; most only cared about quantity

since their wage was dependent on how many beans they picked. martin recalled many hours, days

and weeks training local farmers to understand the process, from the colours of the raw berries to

the smell and taste of the beans once they’d been dried and sorted.

once the farmers understood the importance of quality, it was onto phase two: bring the

roasting process in-house, instead of paying for the beans to be roasted elsewhere. buying his own

roaster – one of the only five in the entire country – was expensive, but the purchase offered a huge

saving in roasting, packaging and exporting costs.

by 2008, his passion started to pay off; he opened his flagship store café jesus martin in

salento. the shop and its team of trained baristas, martin said, have done much to teach the locals

about enjoying specialty coffee. the look on their face when they take their first sip is what keeps

him motivated. “they are reacting so positively; they’re discovering something entirely different

than what they’re used to consuming,” martin said. “when they discover the difference in quality of

their coffee, they start to care more about where and whom it’s coming from.”​

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